Wine has made us grow

We should be very proud of the wine industry in Prince Edward County. It offers employment and training opportunities that give our young folk a reason to stay here. It attracts a broad range of visitors, who spread the word about the endless attractions of the County. Wineries have had a major impact on the fortunes of the County. In the greater scheme of things, however, our wine industry is fairly small. From small things…

It all started in Georgia, formerly within the Soviet Union, approximately 7,000 years ago. While storing grapes during winter, some fermentation occurred—and a fortuitous byproduct of wine was the result. The rest, as they say, is history.

Across the millennia, Georgians have not made radical changes. They still use buried clay vessels (“kvevris”) to ferment their wine. Coated on the inside with beeswax and stopped with a wooden lid, these vessels are unique. They generally have a lifespan of 50 years, and it is not uncommon today to find such a vessel in a farmyard producing wine for family consumption.

It’s not surprising that Georgia became an important wine area. With its proximity to the climate-tempering effects of the Black Sea, the climate is ideal. What is astounding, however, is the range of over 200 different vines that comprise the palate from which Georgian wine is produced. (Quite humbling for the County where we tend to only grow about 30 varieties of grapes.) During the Soviet era, Georgian wines commanded greater respect than did the wines of the Crimea or Moldavia. Current local tensions, unfortunately, have taken much of the lustre off that reputation.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
It’s that time of year when we put aside the delicate wines, and stock-up on the more robust offerings, to warm us up on the cooler nights and pair with autumn fare.

I held back on tasting Del-Gatto Estates, 2012 Giacomo’s Select Baco Noir, because I wanted to match it to one of my September meals. Made entirely from estate and County-grown grapes, this wine truly reflects the terroir and the moderating lake effect on vineyards in the southern part of the County. The nose is layered with autumn spice and prunes, with a deep rich ruby colour in the glass. The palate offers a range of Black Forest cake bing cherries, vanilla, and red fruits. The wine is wonderfully structured without being overwhelming. Pat Del-Gatto and his family have handcrafted this exceptional wine to prove the potential of Baco Noir as a County varietal. Production is modest, as is the price of $20 per bottle.