A sublime blend

A wine region can be defined by soil composition, altitude and mean temperatures of a geographic area. It can be further subdivided into areas unique to each vineyard — for example the position of the vineyard vis-à-vis the sun in the morning or afternoon. And within each of these vineyards we identify smaller areas of individual rows or blocks.

In terms of weather, we talk of the macroclimate of a wine region. And, as we begin to narrow our scope, the concept of mesoclimate comes into play. Finally, at the smallest level, we speak of microclimate.

The American Viticultural Area (AVA) region of NapaValley is a good example of this progression. As you first drive up Highway 29 from the northern end of San FranciscoBay, you enter the cooler Carneros District that is noted for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Farther up the valley, on the east side as temperatures begin to rise, you enter the Stag’s Leap district noted for Cabernet Sauvignon. At the top of the valley (at the farthest point from cooling ocean breezes) you have the memorable Chateau Montelena that has, in many ways, defined the concept of NapaValley wines. Along the way you pass through the districts of DiamondMountain, SpringMountain, St, Helena, Rutherford and Yountville—where similar vines are planted with different end results. The wines in different parts of the Valley exhibit subtle differences because of the mesoclimate of each individual vineyard.

It’s a similar story with the German wine region of Mosel, whose river meanders through the area on its way to join the Rhine at Koblenz. The region can be defined by its distinct soil type, but it is divided into six sub-regions that demonstrate the influence of vineyard location. While Mosel used to grow substantial amounts of Muller-Thurgau grapes, they are being up uprooted and replanted with Riesling, the varietal for which the region has become famous.

In both Napa and Mosel, wineries endeavour to grow fruit that reflects not only their region and sub-region, but also the microclimate within each vineyard. In collaboration with their winemakers, vineyard managers carefully identify differences in fruit—right down to smallest areas in their keep. This attention to detail costs time and money, but the results are worth the effort. And, of course, life is too short not to enjoy good wine.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
It’s almost rosé-sippin’ time, so I tried the delightfully refreshing Rosehall Run Just One Rosé created by winemaker Dan Sullivan. A sublime blend of Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir, this rosé will transport you to the sunny shores of St. Tropez.

You can sip this Tavel-style wine alone, or match it with your favourite barbecue. The aromas are the best of both varietals: with laid-back flavours of red fruits, a little spice, and a balanced acidity that teases the palate.

Rosehall Run’s 2013 Just One Rosé is available at their winery, at 1243 Greer Road, in Hillier.