Go for the roots

We all need a respite from this relentless heat.

2012 has been the year of the perfect storm for local farmers and grape growers. First there was an unseasonably warm spring, then there was a frost shortly afterwards that destroyed much of the potential fruit crop in Ontario. Now they have to deal with a without a drop of rain and the hot summer.

The effect of heat and the lack of precipitation on vines, and other crops, is substantial, but even more so on newly planted vines that have not yet established a deep root system. Grapevines tend to drive their roots deep to search out water. And even the efficacy of this survival technique will depend on the diverse water tables within the County. More mature vines, over 12 years old with well established root systems, draw deep water to sustain their vines. (Most notable is the Palomino vine from Southern Spain, used to create sherry, whose roots can exceed 30 feet.). Younger vines tend to close down if the days are too hot and the grape clusters do not reach full potential.

As is common in other countries, local vineyards do not irrigate. In Mendoza, water is rationed and each vineyard draws its water allotment by a very clever canal system. Even though the area is best described as desert, vines in Washington State are sustained by drip irrigation drawn from the Colombia River. Mother Nature is kinder to the vineyards of Napa, Russian River, and Santa Barbara regions in California: they receive an almost-daily gift of moisture-laden fog that cools the vines and delivers precious water to the ground.

Every year seems to present new challenges to our esteemed Prince Edward County wine industry, as well as to the rest of the wine growing world. As I continue to taste new offerings crafted by our local winemakers, however, I feel they really are in a class of their own, and the best has yet to come.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I decided it was time to suss out great rosé wines so I visited the jack-of-alltrades, Glenn Symons, of Lighthall Vineyards. He makes rosé from cabernet franc grapes that, to borrow a food expression, is a wonder from nose-to-tail.

A bleached, antique rose hue shows beautifully in the glass. The aromas are superbly “summery”: fresh red fruits, packed with crushed raspberry and cranberry flavours. A nice long finish, makes it a perfect patio-sipper. At $17, this 2009 Rosé outstrips, by far, any European offering.

Lighthall Vineyards’ tasting room is located within the actual wine production facility. Apart from the usual stainless tanks, you will also find a wonderful concrete tank which Glenn uses exclusively to produce his notable Pinot Noir. The winery is located at 308 Lighthall Road, in Milford.