Healthy fruit

Vineyard managers are working overtime right now, working to preserve their rows of vines. The constant rainfall a few weeks back required proactive spraying to prevent mildew and other such blights. Now we finally have the necessary heat units, but coupled with mind numbing humidity, constant attention is required to ensure healthy clusters of fruit. Grape growing in Prince Edward County has a special set of challenges, from late frosts to cool summers to a wet harvest — all of which have an impact on the vintage.

But the County is not alone. I can recall summer hailstorms that wiped out the grape harvests in Valais, Switzerland. There were years when the vineyards of Côtes du Rhône and Burgundy were inundated with heavy rains, just prior to harvest. The County has grape-loving raccoons. Piedmont and Tuscany have wild boar that just love snacking on the low fruit. If they are not controlled (by electric fences) they can wreck a vineyard. In Australia, rabbits will defoliate new vines. Many species of birds (such as silvereye) have broadened their diets to include grapes. When these birds feed on grape clusters, it attracts insects and thereby causes significant financial damage to the vineyard.

Every wine region tends to have its own set of problems: some unique, and others more commonplace. There have been wonderful advances in winemaking, but we are ever dependent of the goodwill of Mother Nature for that Goldilocks harvest.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I tasted a charming bottle of 2011 Pinot Gris produced from estate-grown fruit at The Grange of Prince Edward Winery.

Pinot Gris is a varietal that thrives in a cool climate. Upon ripening, its clusters can display a pinkish-gray hue. If the skins have contact with the juice, the wine can take on a pale copper hue. In the case of this wine, contact with the skins was minimal (if any) and the wine shows a bright lemon hue. The aromas are pear, lightly spiced apple, arugula and watermelon. The flavour of greengage plums and a nicely balanced acidity leaves the palate cleansed and begging for another sip.

This is a super summer wine, suitable for sipping on the deck or matched with your favorite summer salad and grilled fish. It is available at the L.C.B.O for only $14.95, or direct from the winery located at 990 Closson Road in Hillier.