La Methode Champenoise

The French government has recently made concessions to the EU, in order to protect regionally exclusive wine names. The European Union prohibits any region, other than Champagne, from calling a sparkling wine by that French provincial name. Some unexpected consequences have ensued.

There are truly exquisite wines from the Champagne region, but more often than not, one can come upon a sparkling wine outside the region that will lift your spirits without the same expense. Traditional methods of producing Champagne have been scrupulously followed by sparkling wine producers around the world—with wonderful results. We have several sparking wine producers within the County that can attest to this.

Hence the problem: if sparkling wine is of the same quality, but with a politically correct label, what becomes of the Champagne brand name? By limiting the use of the Champagne moniker, has the reggion’s wineries made buyers rebel against what they perceive as an overblown reputation? When was the last time you bought a bottle of Champagne?

The French now allow that sparkling wines produced outside the Champagne region may be made observing the “Methode Champenoise” and marketed as such. This keeps the Champagne brand in the public eye, while subtly reminding everyone that the French invented the process.

This intervention by the government allows a finite Champagne production to retain a market cachet, with a price that is driven by demand as well as a trademark.

THIS WEEKS PICK
The highly anticipated release of the Broken Stone Winery’s 2013 Chardonnay proves that some things are well worth the wait. Given that winemaker/owner/Jack-of-all-trades Tim Keupfer held up this release in order to perfect the label design, you just know that the bottles contents will not disappoint.

This is a great example of fine County Chardonnay: the aromas are reminiscent of a French, tarte aux poies; the palate is layered with almonds, manuka honey, greengage plums, and crème brûlé—and there is a refreshingly clean, lightly acidic finish. This is the real deal.

Broken Stone Winery is at 524 Closson Road in Hillier. Their 2013 Chardonnay is priced at $19.95.