Noah, we salute you

Beer and wine have been key elements in the rise of civilization.

The discovery of beer was most likely a fortuitous accident of fermentation, after water seeped into a grain storage area. Stone Age fermenting jars, used by cave dwellers in the Neolithic period, have been dated as far back as 10,000 B.C. Beer brewing may have even preceded bread making.

The discovery of wine was a similar fortuitous accident. Together with the advent of animal husbandry and grain farming, it gave rise to the early civilizations. Plato encouraged the consumption of wine in moderation. Drunkenness was, however, not tolerated (except by the Macedonians, who considered it to be an expression of masculinity).

But while both beer and wine were offered to the gods (and used extensively in the practice of medicine), it was wine that captured the religious imagination. As the early Christian Church replaced older religions, it encouraged the consumption of wine.

In the Old Testament, Noah planted a vineyard on the slopes of Mt. Ararat. (We salute your priorities, Noah!) In the New Testament, there is the well-known wedding where Jesus changed water into wine.

When, in the second century, several Christian sects promoted total abstinence, they were declared heretic. The position of the church was that wine was a gift not to be ignored, while at the same time it was not to be abused.

In any event, as the Church spread, so did the skills of winemaking. The rest is history.

This week’s pick
Sometimes it is worth revisiting a wine, just to see how it has evolved. I had occasion to re-taste the Lacey Estates 2010 Pinot Noir ($33), and was charmed by the beautifully bright garnet colour. The aromas have mellowed into spiced cherry and rhubarb pie, with a hint of saddle. The flavours of ripe red fruit and pomegranate are structured into a lovely clean finish. This wine will improve over the next year.

Winemaker Kimball Lacey has crafted a superb Pinot Noir that demonstrates the unique potential of the County. Keep your eye on this vineyard. I expect their future vintages will show excellent potential as their vines mature.

Lacey Estate Winery is located on 804 Closson Road, in Hillier.