Serendipity

DNA tests show that some of the greatest, and most recognized, grape varieties were the serendipitous result of one variety being crossed with another, by either chance or design.

The University of California Davis proposes that the “chardonnay” grape we love originated from a cross of “pinot noir” and “gouais blanc.” (The latter was brought from Balkan territories to Burgundy by the Romans.) A chance crossing of “cabernet franc” and “sauvignon blanc”, in the 17th century, created the pre-eminent, most desirable variety in the world: “cabernet sauvignon.”

European vines were salvaged, after the phylloxera epidemic, by grafting North American rootstock. I sometimes wonder if this process might have in any way changed their DNA. In a visit to Argentina, I observed 100 different clones of Malbec being planted to establish which one would most suit the climate and terroir, in order to best produce grapes of maximum flavour.

From the time of the Romans—perhaps even earlier—civilization has sought to improve the quality of its fruit. Today, universities in Europe and North America, equally, devote their energies to improving the quality of grapevines—in many cases creating a new hybrid suitable to the local terroir and climate.

And, of course, we have several hybrid varieties grown here in Ontario. Perhaps the most recognized are the juicy “baco noir” and its comrade-in-arms, “marechal foch.” (The latter replaced the local “concord” grape and gave a jump-start to the Ontario wine industry.) These and other hybrid varieties were then—and still remain —of crucial importance to the industry.

Next week I will tell you why!

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week I was introduced to a refreshing new release from Sandbanks Estate Winery. Their delightful 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ($16.95) is an exciting addition to their extensive portfolio, and is a must-have for patio sipping this year.

Winemaker and proprietor Catherine Langlois has created this wine to showcase the grassy, gooseberry nose, with a hint of juniper, that is typical of sauvignon blanc. The flavours were under-ripe pineapple, fresh almond, and kumquat citrus with a white grapefruit acidity. The fruit is Ontario grown and the wine is produced in the County. This sauvignon blanc will prove to be a real crowd-pleaser this season.

Sandbanks Estate Winery is located at 17598 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Wellington.