Rise of the clones

Talk to winemakers and you will discover there is a lot more to making wine than simply planting vines.

In the mid-1930s, California growers noted that vines were becoming less productive, and increasingly susceptible to disease. A program to create, and certify, rootstock sold to growers was not developed, unfortunately, until after the Second World War. Today, rootstock programs are carried out not only in the United States, but also in France, Germany, and Italy. Any major grape growing region in the world will be constantly searching for those small mutations that create a larger diversity of superior clones.

These stronger clones can be propagated in two ways: you can plant a seed and allow it to germinate, or you can take a cutting from a mother vine and graft it onto existing rootstock. In the former case, the new vine will share characteristics of both the flowering plant and the pollen provider. In the latter case, the vine becomes a replica of the parent clone. Clones are not crosses or hybrids. (We’ll talk about that next week.

While clone propagation was first used solely for the purpose of fruit yield and disease resistance, in today’s vineyard the selection of the correct clone(s) can distinguish one vineyard’s wine from another. Although sharing a taste profile with its parent, every clone will create its own complex essence and characteristics. Clones can be selected to maximize fruit yield and vine health in response to soil type, elevation and climate. They can be chosen for tolerance to heat and summer humidity. More importantly, they can be selected for resistance to mildew — reducing the amount of spraying required, which is good for the crop, and even more so for the environment.

I really enjoy talking with all folks connected with wine production, especially with owner/winemakers who tend to have a more “hands on” approach. Cloning is but one of many reasons why a similar varietal will taste different from one vineyard to another.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I love this time of year, when new releases begin to appear and put a “spring” in our step. I recently sampled a great Chardonnay from a County vineyard treasure that is just slightly off the beaten track, tucked away at 76 Station Rd. in Hillier.

The Stanners Vineyard 2012 Chardonnay ($25), typifies the small-production, boutique winery praised by wine luminaries. Winemaker Colin Stanner and his family have recently released three great wines, two of which are such small production that they are guaranteed to fly off the shelf.

When I tasted this Chardonnay, I immediately fell in love with the weight on the palate, with the rolling flavours of green apple, grapefruit and honeyed figs, that culminate with a light, lingering acidic finish. Only 25 cases of this wine were produced: if you want a real treat, grab some before it is gone.