Valentine bubbly

On a recent research trip we stayed in the heart of California’s Gold Country, in the town of Sutter Creek. From the second-storey veranda of our hotel, we overlooked a street scene that came straight out of a Hollywood cowboy movie set. Except the buildings were real. And you could feel the legacy of boom and bust.

We weren’t looking for precious metals, however. We were looking for liquid gold, in one of California’s oldest (yet newest) wine regions. The surrounding areas of Amador and El Dorado counties, and the Shenandoah Valley, have some of the oldest vines in California— some having survived from before the Prohibition Act. Local lore claims the wine industry began to accommodate the needs of the 1850s miners and those who catered to their worldly needs.

The region is famous for Zinfandel, but growers also plant Chardonnay, Barbera, Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. (Chenin Blanc and occasionally Sauvignon Blanc are planted in the northern reaches.) I was thrilled to taste wine made from “Mission Grapes” brought to California by the early Franciscan friars. (The Story winery produces an interesting rosé wine from the fruit, although a little on the sweet side for my taste.) Located in the rugged Sierra foothills at an altitude ranging from 1,000 to 2,500 feet, and with very little rainfall (19 inches of rain annually), “dry farmng” is a necessity. The vine roots must dig deep to extract moisture and minerals, allowing the winemakers to produce almost chewable wines.

I felt totally at home in these wineries, which reminded me of those in the County. All small to medium-sized, they have a down-to-earth mix of old world and modern. It is not uncommon to meet the winemaker behind the tasting bar. I especially liked that some wineries sold wine in reusable jugs: bring back the container and you’re automatically given a discount. What are the chances of this happening here?

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This weekend, we celebrate the feast of St. Valentine, one of the early Christian martyrs. He was imprisoned for performing marriages, and apparently healed the warden’s daughter— prior to becoming a feature act in the Colosseum.

A better way to celebrate Valentine’s is to crack open a bottle of bubbly with your loved one. Better yet, choose from a wide variety of County-made sparkling. If you cannot make it out to a winery prior to the weekend, your local L.C.B.O. features County-made bubbly at various price points:

Casa Dea’s 2011 Dea’s Cuvée ($18.95).

Huff Estate’s 2007 Cuvée Peter ($39.95).

The Grange of Prince Edward’s opulent Sparkling Riesling ($24.95).

Prince Edward County is garnering high praise for its sparkling wines. Should you wish to pick up your favourite directly from the winery, I suggest you call ahead, as many of them are operating on winter hours.